Well I started out, scared of the ocean. And I started out without the drive, then I found a reason and decided to learn.
And in the water… I had no traction. My board was crap, and I was weak.
I went out every day, for one month straight. Rain or shine; I showed up and paddled.
Little by little my muscles grew stronger, I got used to the ocean, I saw wave patterns.
And I stood and fell, over and over. A a 3 second ride was hitting the lotto.
I internalized and focused deeper, my mind saw subtle and I got better.
I chased changing conditions, and bigger waves, longer rides, and larger crowds.
Learning to Surf, I showed up each day.
It’s the only way.
